So thirsty

The first day of Ramadan was actually a breezy one.

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Somehow with the change of the month, it seemed fresher outside.

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El Hamdulilaah, El Hamduliaah, I have been waiting for the summer to end.

For me this first September morning did not start smooth. After a hectic, sleepless night and morning (ear infection baby; I had to drive her around in her pram, it seemed the only way to fall asleep), I finally manage to go out for a few hours to my Arabic lessons. No breakfast, no tea just like millions of Muslims here in Cairo. Except, I didn't choose to do so because of my hurry. On my way to school I am starting to feel VERY thirsty and quite hungry...and grumpy.

I can not help looking at everyone else. With so many Islamic people around in Cairo, it feels odd not to be fasting. I hope I am not staring too much. They must be so thirsty... I mean with the idea of not being able to drink day. How do they work with an empty stomach all day? How do you do that?! I read on a website somewhere that very strict Muslims don’t even swallow their saliva during Ramadan.

Drinking or eating in public is very much NOT DONE during Ramadan. At ‘school’, (CSA, Community Services Association; a non-profit organization) there is a change to eat or drink in the garden. Outside on the terrace I see people drinking coffee. Here at coffee shop Grecco’s no fasting what so ever, there is even a huge line of people ordering food and drinks. But since I am late already I decide to wait because I don't want to take coffee in the class in front of my fasting teacher. During my class I can not help thinking, ‘How does she do it??!’ Teaching with such energy while you are faint of hunger and craving for a drink.

My head has already started pounding with just a few hours without liquid. Aaaah!!, I need a drink. After I have gulped down half a liter in the back yard of CSA, I get a taxi and go back home. The taxi driver is humming along the religious radio channel. The poor man's head is covered in sweat. Driving around in this heat, fasting. 'Man, how do you do it?!', I think. I get out and great with ‘Ramadan Kareem’, (‘Generous Ramadan’).

Having never lived in a Muslim country before, I must say this Ramadan really occupies my brain. I am amazed of the devotion to their religion. I was raised as a Protestant. In my hometown people attended church once a week, one hour on Sunday. For the very religious ones, in the morning and afternoon. As I child I didn't think too much of it. In church many (elderly) people fell asleep during the service and others were sharing peppermints. In some cases if the preacher would go on too long, people would start looking at their watches. So being in a country where people pray five times a day, it makes you think.

At home I see the sun coming down, watching from our roof. And I hear the prayers from the minarettes, the fourth prayer. Hardly any noise from down in the streets. What is happening to Cairo? Iftar has started (the first meal after the fasting). Everyone is eating drinking, making up from what was not possible during the day. I wish I could be on Tahrir Square (one of the busiest squares in Cairo), just for a moment to see what is going on downtown. I thought it would all be mad. I still have to go out and explore more.